There's a strong image of yukata being worn for summer events like festivals and fireworks displays. Nowadays, the variety of yukata has increased, with affordable options and easy-to-tie obi sashes becoming available, making them more accessible than before. Even if you don't know much about yukata, you generally understand that they are a type of traditional Japanese attire.
They look similar to kimono, but what are the differences? Let's introduce the differences between yukata and kimono.
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Is Yukata Actually a Type of Kimono?
If yukata are considered traditional Japanese attire (wafu), then they can be thought of as the same as kimono. However, the way they are worn and the situations in which they are worn differ.
If you were to categorize clothing, yukata would be considered a type of kimono in a broad sense. However, when categorized more finely, several differences emerge. Let's explore the detailed differences, assuming yukata are a type of kimono.
Yukata are Lightweight Kimono Worn in Summer
Yukata are considered a type of kimono, but there are several differences from kimono.
Perhaps the most obvious difference is that "yukata are lightweight kimono worn in summer." Visually, both kimono and yukata have almost the same shape. However, when comparing the two side-by-side, the difference in fabric is clearly visible.
Kimono are made of slightly thicker, sturdier fabric and are not sheer.
Yukata, on the other hand, have a smooth texture, feel light and airy when worn, and are often sheer. While some yukata fabrics are not sheer, they are generally thinner than kimono and can become sheer when light hits them, highlighting the fabric difference. Since yukata are worn in summer, a certain degree of sheerness is just right. They also offer excellent breathability, allowing you to stay cool even in the hot summer.
If it's hard to imagine with traditional Japanese attire, it might be surprisingly easy to understand by comparing it to Western clothing. Winter clothes and summer clothes have different fabric materials and thicknesses, right? The same basic principle applies to yukata and kimono.
Kimono and Yukata Have the Same Shape
When comparing kimono and yukata side-by-side, it's clear that their shapes are almost identical. This is one reason why yukata are considered a type of kimono.
Although there are some differences in how they are put on, the basic method of putting on the sleeves, adjusting the collar, and tying the obi is essentially the same. While there are several differences in the fabrics of kimono and yukata, their shapes remain largely unchanged.
In the Past, Yukata Were Used as Sleepwear; Today, They are Casual Summer Wear
In the past, people didn't have the custom of wearing Western clothes as they do now, so they usually wore kimono. However, since it's impossible to sleep while wearing a kimono, yukata were used as sleepwear.
During the Heian period, only aristocrats used yukata, but in the Edo period, as public bathhouses became common, the custom of wearing yukata spread among common people. Because they were once used as sleepwear, yukata are considered casual, even though they are a type of kimono.
Kimono are considered formal attire, so even with the same shape, kimono are considered to have a higher status.
The casual nature of yukata makes them easy to wear, which is an advantage. Nowadays, they are often worn as casual summer wear. Since they are not formal like kimono, there's no strict dress code for obi sashes or footwear, allowing for a certain degree of free arrangement. The ability to pair yukata with sneakers or sandals, or even remake them into dresses, is precisely because of their casual nature.
What are the Differences Between Yukata and Kimono?
Besides the difference in formality (casual vs. formal), yukata and kimono have several other distinct differences. Let's look at these differences in more detail.
Wearing Season and Occasion
Yukata and kimono also differ in the season and occasions for which they are worn.
Yukata are limited to summer wear. (Although some people still use yukata as sleepwear, this is excluded as they are not worn outside in such cases.)
In most cases, yukata are worn for summer events like summer festivals and fireworks displays. If you go to a festival or fireworks display with friends, just wearing a yukata can change your mood and let you experience a summery atmosphere.
Kimono can also be worn in summer, but since you wear a `hadajuban` (undergarment), a `nagajuban` (long undergarment), and `tabi` (split-toe socks) underneath, even a lightweight summer kimono can feel quite hot. Furthermore, kimono are worn as formal attire for celebratory occasions like weddings and parties, as well as for Hatsumode (first shrine visit of the New Year), Coming-of-Age ceremonies, and even for mourning occasions. Kimono are often chosen as formal wear for ceremonial occasions (kankonsosai), and can be worn as formal attire when attending celebratory events.
Yukata cannot be worn for official occasions, but kimono are acceptable for such events.
Differences in Material and Fabric
Yukata and kimono also differ in their fabrics.
Yukata are typically made of cotton, but blended fabrics with linen are also common. Recently, many polyester-made yukata have also become available. Polyester yukata offer many advantages, such as excellent water absorption and quick-drying properties for comfortable wear, durable fabric that resists losing shape after washing, and lower prices. Their good color development allows for a rich variety of designs and color options.
Kimono are made from materials such as silk, cotton, and wool. The fabric is sturdier than yukata fabric and includes a lining, so it is not sheer. They convey a sense of high quality visually as well. The colors and patterns, unlike yukata, are generally subdued and elegant.
While some inexpensive kimono use synthetic fibers, for kimono, the obi sash is also chosen to match the fabric, so selecting an appropriate obi for the fabric is key.
Whether or Not to Wear Undergarments
Undergarments also differ significantly between yukata and kimono.
When wearing a yukata, it's recommended to wear traditional Japanese undergarments (waso shitagi) to prevent sheerness and ensure a beautiful silhouette. There are also specific undergarments for yukata, so if you want to prevent sheerness, you wear a `hadajuban`. Otherwise, you can substitute the top with a camisole or sports bra, and the bottom with `suteteko` (long underwear). Since yukata are meant to be thin and cool, some people try to get by with regular bras and panties, thinking that wearing undergarments would make them hot. However, this can lead to undergarments showing through and body lines being visible, which doesn't look elegant.
Kimono are fundamentally worn over a `hadajuban`, `susoyoke` (skirt-like undergarment), and `nagajuban`. While you can wear a `hadajuban` with a yukata to prevent sheerness, a `nagajuban` is not worn because it would be too hot. A key point of the `nagajuban` is that its collar is visible.
Even with yukata, traditional Japanese undergarments are worn, but a `nagajuban` is not. `Hadajuban` and `waso` bras are designed to be invisible when wearing a yukata.
Different Dressing Methods
Yukata and kimono also differ in their dressing methods (`kitsuke`).
When adjusting the collar, both yukata and kimono are worn with the "right side over left" (`migimae`). The way the collars are aligned is the same, but because different undergarments are worn, kimono take more time to put on.
While undergarments aren't particularly difficult, both kimono and yukata require creating an `ohashori` (tuck at the waist) to adjust the length. This is common to both, and the method is almost identical.
Since yukata do not involve wearing a `nagajuban`, after putting it on, the back collar is slightly lowered. Kimono, however, are adjusted to align with the `nagajuban`.
Putting it on and tying the `koshihimo` (waist cord) is also almost the same, but the way the obi sash is tied differs.
The obi sashes used for yukata are narrower and shorter, whereas those for kimono are wider and longer. The way obi sashes are tied is completely different for yukata and kimono.
For kimono, the obi is changed according to the fabric, and the tying methods also vary. There are more types of kimono obi than yukata obi, and several accessories are needed when tying them. Recently, `obijime` (decorative cord) is sometimes used with yukata as an accessory, but it is essential for kimono.
The effort and time required for dressing (`kitsuke`) differ considerably between yukata and kimono.
Furisode is Also a Type of Kimono
There are several types of kimono. Among kimono, there are `tsukesage` for a casual feel, `iromuji` (plain colored kimono) and `homongi` (visiting kimono) for casual outings, and `kurotomesode` (black formal kimono) or `irotomesode` (colored formal kimono) with family crests for ceremonial occasions.
Another type is `furisode`, which is also counted as a kind of kimono. While `furisode` are often associated with Coming-of-Age ceremonies, they are exclusively worn by unmarried women. They can be worn for Coming-of-Age ceremonies, and also for weddings and parties if the wearer is unmarried.
One can also view `homongi` as formal attire for married women, and `furisode` as formal attire for unmarried women. When wearing kimono for a wedding, `shiromuku` (white wedding kimono) or `uchikake` (embroidered wedding robe) are worn. These are also `furisode` in style, featuring long, luxurious sleeves.
Weddings often bring to mind wedding dresses, but recently, traditional Japanese attire (waso) has also become popular, leading to an increase in the variety of `waso` available for rental. The pattern of wearing a wedding dress first, then changing into a `hon-furisode` (formal `furisode`) for the reception, has also become popular.
Furisode are Kimono with Long Sleeves
While `furisode` are characterized by their long sleeves, there are actually different types of `furisode`, each worn for different occasions.
The types of `furisode` are `Ofurisode` (large `furisode`), `Chufurisode` (medium `furisode`), and `Kofurisode` (small `furisode`), with slightly different sleeve lengths for each. An `Ofurisode` is approximately 114cm, a `Chufurisode` approximately 100cm, and a `Kofurisode` approximately 85cm.
As `Ofurisode` are worn for highly formal occasions, they are often worn for one's own wedding. `Chufurisode` are worn for Coming-of-Age ceremonies or when attending a wedding as a guest.
`Kofurisode` are generally worn with `hakama` (pleated skirt-like trousers) for graduation ceremonies. All of these are kimono worn by unmarried women. If worn for one's own wedding, even if the marriage registration has already been completed and the wearer is legally married, it is acceptable to wear a `furisode` for the wedding ceremony. However, after the ceremony is over, as the wearer becomes a married woman, `furisode` are no longer worn.
Since `furisode` are often worn for celebrations, their patterns are auspicious (keiji). It is possible to shorten the sleeves of a `furisode` after becoming married and continue wearing it, but depending on the pattern, the places where it can be worn might be limited even after shortening the sleeves. Depending on the pattern, shortening the sleeves might also disrupt the balance, so it might be wise to consider future use when choosing.
In Short, Both Yukata and Furisode are "Kimono"
We've looked at the differences between yukata and kimono, but broadly speaking, both yukata and `furisode` fall under the kimono genre. While the categories change when classified more finely, it's probably fine to generally recognize them all as kimono.
Summary
Generally, opportunities to wear both yukata and kimono are limited, so even if there are differences, they might not be well understood. Even for those who wear yukata but not kimono, knowing the differences might be useful at some point.
